More of us are drinking alternatives to dairy. But are they good for the planet? (And which makes the best coffee?) | Explainer
Bob Rich loved wrestling but was ambivalent about the ice-cream business he inherited from his father, in Buffalo, New York. So he channelled his frustration into invention. In 1945, in response to wartime milk shortages, Rich created a whipped-cream topping made from soy protein, corn syrup and sugar. It was a hit. He branched out into other dairy-free products, including soy coffee creamer and soy ice cream.
, which notes the pivot to plant milks is part of a trend towards animal-free “alt-protein” foods. Plant milks’ appeal extends beyond lactose-intolerant consumers to those aiming to make “green” choices.Artwork iStock, Aresna VillanuevaPlant milks are made by breaking down a plant and homogenising the fats and proteins, which means the molecules are made into smaller, uniform particles – any particles larger than 50 micrometres leave a gritty texture on the tongue.
One of the main drivers, particularly among some younger consumers, is concern over the environmental impacts of dairy milk. “But we [also] have a growing awareness regarding sustainability and the need for environmentally friendly consumption,” Garg says. “So I think it’s like a perfect storm – a positive storm – for this industry, where a lot of factors have collided to drive the demand for the substitutes.
Although methane dissipates more quickly than CO2 – it takes about a decade whereas CO2 can take 1000 years to break down – its supercharged heating capability locks heat into the deep ocean. “That’s where the real damage comes from,” Eckard says. “In 1000 years’ time, that temperature will still be coming out of the oceans.”
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