Native American chefs are redefining the food truck scene while building a loyal customer base
, Native-owned food trucks are forging their own path – traveling the dusty highways and backroads of New Mexico to bring Indigenous recipes to customers.Native American population in the US. But few of the state’s restaurants are actually Native-owned. As a result of the Covid-19 pandemic and its impact on the restaurant industry, Native chefs are increasingly turning to food trucks to launch their own businesses.
“I don’t feel like we should go back [to entirely precontact cooking], even if you try to go back you’re lying.” Naranjo says he explores the ways Native foods have wound their way into dishes from around the world, and in turn experiments with how those global flavors can create a new Native American fusion.
Ryan Rainbird Taylor holds a plate full of indigenous soul food dishes that Yapopup is known for. We meet him in the Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo, not far from his grandmother’s home.Naranjo was key to starting the project, said Taylor. “Chef Ray is definitely my biggest influence, my biggest teacher,” he said. “We’re not related, we don’t have any family connection, but he’s never given up on me.”
Left: Ryan Rainbird Taylor spoons consommé over his version of quesabirria tacos in his grandmother’s kitchen in Ohkay Owingeh, New Mexico. Taylor uses his grandmother’s feast day stew recipe along with New Mexico-grown red chile and blue corn tortillas.Photograph: Gabriela Campos/The Guardian In 2020, just before the Covid-19 pandemic began, that goal became a reality. Arquero opened the Over the Moon food truck and began serving Indian Tacos as well as. The food truck took its name from the nickname “moon” that Arquero’s cousin had given her as a child.
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