Glenda Barretto was the first person who showed me how to be proud of Filipino food. ManilaBulletin
Glenda Barretto was the first person who showed me how to be proud of Filipino food. In the early ’90s, I was helping to organize a dinner at the Coconut Palace for a group of gourmets from around the world.
I wanted to write like Ruth Reichl. In addition to being a food critic for The New York Times and editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, she has written cookbooks, a novel, several memoirs on her life as a writer and editor. Reading her books and articles felt personal, like she was talking to me. She’s funny, and thoughtful. She paints pictures with words. She doesn’t just write about food and restaurants. Her pieces are peppered with facts and information.
Both my parents showed us how to eat well, but it was my mom who had more of an influence on me. She taught me to keep an open mind, and to be adventurous. “You can’t say you don’t like something if you’ve never tasted it,” she would tell me. So she trained me to taste everything at least once. Really taste it— put a bite in my mouth, chew, and swallow— not the childish trick of sticking out my tongue to touch the food that I always tried to get away with.
And then there was Tita Glenda—Via Mare’s inimitable Glenda Barretto, whose creativity and innovation uplifted Filipino food while retaining its true flavor and heart. She championed Filipino food to the world long before other chefs even thought about elevated Filipino cuisine. She opened my eyes to variety of tastes, colors, and ingredients that make our food what it is. From her I learned that Filipino food could look beautiful.
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