Former professional Mat Cassidy was enjoying a surf close to home earlier this year when a runaway board left him so badly hurt, he thought he was going to die.
Mat Cassidy has ratcheted up an extensive list of injuries travelling the world for his sport. But the closest he has come to dying was surfing much closer to home.
He drew the wetsuit back over the wound and, still standing, managed to surf the last five metres into shore before telling other beachgoers how to tie a tourniquet to save his life. “Most of the guys who don’t wear leg ropes are posers,” he said. “It’s all about the look and the vibe, looking very Byron … it’s all about getting to the roots of longboarding.“But there is no surfer I know who can go a whole surf without losing their board. It’s just a selfish act [to not wear a leg rope] in a place that’s that crowded.
“The knowledge that you could get fined does make people think twice,” she said. “You do need a stick every now and then to go with the carrot.”
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