Swallow your fear and take a deep dive into the culinary world of NZ chef Vaughan Mabee: you’ll remember the food at Amisfield for life.
At times tonight, you will ingest fat, salt, sugar, protein, bacteria, fungi, various plants and animals, and entire ecosystems.” The quote is from the Hollywood movie, the gastro-comic horror movie of 2022 that spoofed the high-minded concept of fine dining.
As one of an elite handful of invited international media, I have full, unrestricted access to the huntin’, shootin’, fishin’ chef, who has bagged as many awards as he has pheasant and wild boar. New Zealand’s Restaurant of The Year in 2020, 2021, 2022 and 2023; three hats in the Cuisine Good Food Awards 2023; Finalist in The Best Chef Awards, to be announced in Yucatán in November.
It has taken the past five years of concerted effort to convert the estate to organic certification from BioGro NZ, culminating in winning Sustainable Vineyard of the Year in the 2023 Aoterea Organic Wine Awards. More importantly, Amisfield winemakers Sam Davies and Ben Leen are already registering more intense flavours and distinct differences across the vineyard.
That butterfish, for example, is a vegetarian species, that feeds only on kelp, which means it won’t rise for bait – so the whitebait on top are perfectly safe. One dish is presented in the open mouths of three greenbone fish. A ‘lamb’s tail’ hangs suspended, white and woolly, before its fleece is burnt off at the table.
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