‘I’ll have a half-oat, half-soy decaf!’ How green are plant milks?
Bob Rich loved wrestling but was ambivalent about the ice-cream business he inherited from his father, in Buffalo, New York. So he channelled his frustration into invention. In 1945, in response to wartime milk shortages, Rich created a whipped-cream topping made from soy protein, corn syrup and sugar. It was a hit.
Fast-forward to the noughties, and soy milk was still the dominant alternative to dairy. Yet, in the past decade, other contenders have appeared – oat, almond, rice and more. Aboutof Australian households bought plant milks as well as dairy in 2021, up from 30 per cent in 2016, according to research by Nielsen Data. In the year to July 2021, plant milk made up 15.
Plant milks, as with cow’s milk, are pasteurised – treated with high temperatures – to sterilise them and improve their shelf life. Nut milks can be made in this way, too, but don’t require cooking or enzyme treatment, and can be made using nuts milled into a powder or paste rather than a blended slurry.
“I think that the reason why non-dairy or plant-based milk came into the marketplace is health,” Garg says. Many plant-milk drinkers are lactose intolerant, which means their body can’t break down the lactose sugar in cow’s milk, but others seek out plant milk because it’s lower in fat and kilojoules. Soy milk fortified with calcium and vitamins A and D has the, which is naturally high in these and other nutrients, including B vitamins.
“Millennials are very tuned into these issues of animal welfare and climate change. Generation X is also a big factor because they have witnessed some of the key changes [in the environment] and they have the resources to support this movement. A lot of these coffee purchases you’re seeing in cafes switching to plant-based milk is driven by that generation.”
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