The more I write about food, the more I come to realize that ... dumplings are universal — it’s why they’re such an easy entryway into a culture’s cuisine.
Perogies. Ravioli. Shumai. Har Gow. Samosa. Gyoza. Tamales. Every culture has a version of dumplings, those tasty doughy creations you find everywhere from grocery store freezers to street food stalls to restaurant menus. In “What We Talk About When We Talk About Dumplings,” edited by John Lorinc, writers contemplate the importance of dumplings — their populism, cultural significance and, of course, their deliciousness.
Heck, even with the wontons, everyone in my friends’ and family’s circles prefers a different filling or fold. One friend prefers the squeeze method — literally putting a bit of filling into the wrapper and then squeezing her hand into a fist to seal it — because that’s the fastest method . My mom, meanwhile, prefers the fold that makes the dumpling look like a person wearing a bonnet ’cause that’s what her mom taught her.
In the early months of COVID-19, in January 2020, I went with some friends to a noodle spot in Markham called Wuhan Noodle 1950 to order its dry pot noodles and a side of dumplings. Months before the pandemic emergency was officially declared in Canada, Chinese restaurants had begun to see their business plummet due to old, racist stereotypes about Chinese food and cleanliness, all of which had resurfaced amidst simmering fear about the virus.
Dumplings popped into my life again during the initial months of the pandemic lockdown in Toronto. Bags of frozen potstickers became a bit of a saviour in my household in the pre-vaccine days of the pandemic, when every trip to the supermarket seemed like running to get supplies during a zombie apocalypse.
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