From day to night, the menu does a complete 180 from Italian to Taiwanese thanks to the creative energy of its two chefs-in-residence
, speaks enthusiastically about the chef-in-residence model. “I’ve never had so much control over my food,” he says. “It feels really good to bring my vision to the table.” Carbs make up the backbone of Wilkes’s menu—things like red wine–braised short rib pappardelle and a bread bowl brimming with focaccia and sourdough.
When the sun goes down, Chia’s Taiwanese street food hits the menu. She started Eats by Betty during the pandemic, serving up house-made dumplings and chili oil at pop-ups across the city. Tasty snacks and creative flavour bombs abound—think blistered shishito peppers with kimchi salt, a kung pao cauliflower bao and Szechuan beef tartare spread on bone marrow.
There is some crossover between the kitchens: Chia’s chili crisp makes its way into the compound butter accompanying Wilkes’ bread basket. Meanwhile, Wilkes makes the dumpling wrappers for Chia’s spicy wontons. Fusion or not, it’s certainly symbiosis. A sampling of Wilkes’s day menu. Clockwise from top left: the house bread basket, the Cartl Beef Sando, a wedge salad and mushroom taglioliniA bread bowl of focaccia and sourdough served with a chili crisp compound butter made with Chia’s own XO sauce. $7A textural marvel of a wedge salad, complete with pumpkin seeds, cashews and—wait for it—corn nuts.
On the left, we have the Gold Crush, a drink from the night menu’s Colours of Simpl section. Old Forester bourbon infused with Asian pear is blended with white port, spruce and lemon for a bright, easy-drinking delight. $16The place is split into two rooms, each with its own distinctive colour palette, and space-age vintage is the vibe throughout: think rounded corners, knick-knacks, bright hues and mood lighting.
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