What’s it like dining at Canada’s new $500 per person sushi restaurant?

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What’s it like dining at Canada’s new $500 per person sushi restaurant?
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What's it like dining at Canada's new $500 per person sushi restaurant? via nparts

The stereotypes most commonly associated with North Americans abroad have never sat well with me. And yet, I have found it nearly impossible to shake our preceding reputation in Japan where my very presence — too tall, loud and probably lost somewhere — always feels boorish.

At the top of the stairs awaits Sushi Masaki Saito, Toronto’s newest sushi temple where everything — from the $100,000 hinoki wood sushi counter to the sleek cedar wall paneling — has been imported from Japan. Walking into the restaurant feels like being transported to Shibamata, a non-touristy neighbourhood on the eastern tip of Tokyo known for its quiet streets and old-world character.

At a recent media preview, Saito begins an 18-course omakase by shouting “Kampai” while toasting a champagne flute filled to the brim with gold-flecked sake. He follows this with a selection of appetizers, including three pieces of sweet and mild grouper sashimi and crunchy sea grapes, plus impossibly buttery mackerel .

Unconcerned that the restaurant’s PR person’s face had flushed, he dispenses airy bites of Hokkaido uni onto the tops of our hands as we slurp them back. He then retrieves a hulking slab of candy pink bluefin tuna bought from the famous tuna auctions at Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market. Everyone begins snapping photos of the prized fish as Chef Saito takes advantage of the interactive moment.

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