Golden in colour and ever-so-slightly hazy from contact with the lees, the wine tastes wholesome in the manner of the best natural wines
It’s not cheap, exactly. But the marvellous flavour and the story behind this wine might place it in a more agreeable perspective. First of all, Mike Traynor is a smart farmer and gifted tinkerer in the winery with a passion for natural, minimal-intervention techniques, among other things. Second, this chardonnay was made with special and rare grapes. In 2017, some of Traynor’s chardonnay vines became infected with a “good” fungus known as Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot.
Many dessert-wine producers, notably in Bordeaux, take this opportunity to craft exotically flavoured sweet wines such as Sauternes. Traynor’s chardonnay fruit, however, had been destined for a fine, dry, skin-fermented table wine called 5th Element. Rather than using the Botrytis-affected fruit for that purpose, he performed a cull in the vineyard, harvesting the raisin-like fruit to make a separate wine.
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