Jérôme Quirion has spent the past decade cultivating Quebec’s Appalachian truffle at his farm in Saint-Denis-de-Brompton. Unlike the more popular black and white varieties, these truffles are rust brown, smaller and generally milder in aroma
It’s been 13 years since Jérôme Quirion smelled his first truffle. At a food festival in France, he was handed a simple egg omelette with Burgundy truffle shaved on top.
One famous example, from Time magazine, evoked “the pungent memory of lost youth and old love affairs.” Poet Diane Ackerman, in turn, recalled “the muskiness of a rumpled bed after an afternoon of love in the tropics.” “French people will say, ‘French ones are the best.’ Spanish people will say, ‘Spain’s are the best,’” said Mr. Quirion.Mr. Quirion shows Bloom the truffles he's collected in a truffle grove planted within an apple orchard.Unlike the more popular black and white varieties, Quebec’s Appalachian truffles are rust brown. They’re also smaller, and generally milder in aroma.
In Quebec, there are about 25 truffle growers. But so far, only Mr. Quirion has successfully produced them. And while he does sell to a handful of chefs and customers, his focus is on building an industry – on selling trees inoculated with truffle spores to other growers. But that’s also part of the fun. “The fact that it isn’t easy does make it interesting,” said Prof. Berch. “Why does it take that long? What does it take? What are the right conditions to try to get truffles?”But where others see mystery, Prof. Voyer saw a challenge.
They found compounds associated with a broad range of smells: from garlic and rotten cabbage to seaweed., explained Prof. Voyer. “But,” he said, “they have not been properly investigated for their aroma.”
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