‘They need to evolve’: why Britain’s curry houses are in decline

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‘They need to evolve’: why Britain’s curry houses are in decline
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Indian street food places such as Dishoom may be thriving but thousands of traditional restaurants have closed. Has the classic curry fallen out of favour?

ritain’s love affair with curry goes back centuries, long before the boom in the late 1970s saw restaurants popping up in every town and city. Well into the 90s and 00s, going for a curry, mopped up with naan bread and washed down with your drink of choice, was a Friday night staple.

“It started off with oversaturation, but the market is being shared as we’ve now got so many other cuisines as well and they’re not keeping up with it, and I would say that is what has led to the decline of the curry industry.”Photograph: Alecsandra Raluca Drăgoi/The Guardian There are conflicting figures on exactly how many Indian restaurants there are in the UK but most suggest they have dropped from about 12,000 in 2011 to about 8,000 today.

“I think it was a product of Raj nostalgia of the 1990s,” she added. “In the heyday of the cheap Indian restaurant, they were often quite small, almost invariably had red flock velvety wallpaper. They were often arranged in little nooks, were quite dark, and there were often cane chairs with prints of people hunting boar or something on the walls.

“People tend to want to have different things to their parents,” he said. “Growing up my parents were having lamb chops and boiled potatoes and salt was the most exciting thing on it, so when I left home I started to have curries because I had never had that at home. I don’t think that’s the case for young people any more.”

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