This year for our drinks expert’s best-of list, the focus is on alternative varietals. Embark on a journey of discovery.
While just five grapes – shiraz, chardonnay, cabernet, merlot and sauvignon blanc – still account for over three-quarters of all wine produced in this country, an enthusiastic band of growers and makers is now also producing wine from a further 170-plus varieties – fromSure, some of these varieties are and will remain super-niche . But some have gone on – and others have the potential – to become thoroughly mainstream.
This cultural change has come about in four distinct waves. The first wave of alternatives, planted by curious and visionary winegrowers in the 1980s and ’90s, tended to be more familiar varieties from famous – or relatively famous – regions: gamay from Beaujolais, for example, or northern Italian reds such as sangiovese from Tuscany and nebbiolo and barbera from Piedmont.
Crucially, many of these new-wave varieties were chosen not because they were familiar or famous – indeed, some, like Sicily’s nero d’Avola, were only just beginning to gain wider attention in their homeland – but because they were well suited to warmer, drier Australian growing conditions.
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