For years, the island’s cuisine has been mistaken for ‘Chinese food’, says cookbook author Clarissa Wei
t always warrants a double take. This time, I was in Malmö, Sweden, admiring the cobblestone pavement and enjoying the cool, crisp weather, when the sign came into view: “Yi FangFruit Tea” it said, next to a line of Chinese script. I recognised the brand immediately. Yi Fang is a Taiwanese bubble tea chain with outposts in more than a dozen countries across the world – it’s a store I have seen multiple times around the block in Taipei where I live.
From bubble tea to baos, Taiwanese dishes can now be found in all corners of the world. Still, Taiwanese food is often lumped under the broad umbrella of Chinese cuisine – or even occasionally confused with Thai food. It wasn’t until Taiwan transitioned into a democracy in the late 80s and 90s that Taiwanese food became a category unto itself. This was a particularly welcome development because food from the island has its own qualities that distinguish it from that of China. For example, the soy sauce, rice wine and rice vinegars of Taiwan are made with Japanese-era recipes, a legacy of Japanese colonial rule. The flavours are also generally sweeter across the board.
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