Jon Seltin reckons climate change is already changing the taste of beer, and amid a craft brewing boom he’s determined not to add to the problem.
during the northern summer have made 2022 a very bad year for the hop gardens that supply many of the world’s most famous brewers.Asked whether climate change was changing the way beer tastes, Seltin said: “I contend it probably does. Heritage barley varieties that perhaps had greater growing ranges in the past aren’t grown as much any more, in favour of more drought-resistant varieties or higher-yielding varieties.
“There’s been a sort of consolidation of hops and a move to more intensive agribusiness rather than individual small growers, and this necessarily means different raw materials, different-flavoured beer.“Brewers, you’ll find, think a lot about climate change. We think a lot about water stress … because it really affects where you can grow these things.
“A normal fermentation cycle for us might be 14 days, 16 days, up to 21 days, a lot of refrigeration involved, long cycle times, [whereas] the alcohol-free beer, we can turn around in seven or eight days, very high throughput, much lower refrigeration requirements.“This is a segment that has really grown at a phenomenal rate over this past year in Australia.”But he said drinkers wanting to lower their carbon footprint should think less about the type of brew and more about where it came from.
“Drinking beer that is produced here in Australia, largely from Australian ingredients ... they then negate the need for importing, for bringing beer which is incredibly heavy and bulky around the world with all the shipping and energy encompassed therein,” he said.
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