The one change that didn’t work: I started baking sourdough – and discovered my obsessive side

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The one change that didn’t work: I started baking sourdough – and discovered my obsessive side
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I was getting up at 6am to meet the demands of a yeast culture I could never bend to my will. It was a relief to finally give up trying

he very first sourdough starter I brought to life was a tremendous success, except when it came to making bread with it. The resulting loaf was heavy and flat, like a paving stone. It sort of tasted like a paving stone.

I can barely remember why I started making sourdough. I think there was something elemental about the process – just flour and water, left to go weird – that appealed to me. You didn’t need to buy yeast; it just arrived on the air, and made itself at home. I also was a little bit underemployed at the time, and baking held the tantalising possibility of mastery.And while the bread did get better over time, it also got less elemental.

In those days, I also spent a lot of time talking to other sourdough enthusiasts, swapping notes and tips. By that point I was pretty knowledgable – I’d read widely, logged a lot of hours and watched many YouTube videos – but I was still basically a fraud. The best loaves I ever turned out were pretty indifferent. I ate them, but I wouldn’t have paid for them.

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