New York exhibition traces style evolution: ‘These are intergenerational ideas of what it meant to be stylish’
rom Professor X’s hat to Spike Lee merch and the Thom Browne dress Doja Cat wore on the red carpet in 2022, Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous, a new exhibition at New York’s
Collaborations between hip-hop artists and brands today are commonplace, but this was the first of its kind. “It led to the multimillion-dollar endorsement, which was the first time that a hip-hop group had signed a deal like that,” says Romero. “It’s much later that hip-hop becomes a business. This was organic.”The bucket hat dates back to farming communities and was worn on the TV show Gilligan’s Island in the 60s. Its association with hip-hop dates to the late 70s.
“We see this in communities of colour consistently,” she adds. “It’s an ode to their parents and older generations wearing a hat. These are intergenerational ideas of what it meant to be stylish.”In the early 80s, the designer jean market was exploding with brands ranging from Gloria Vanderbilt to Calvin Klein. Labels such as Jordache, Calvin Klein and Lee were popular in the hip-hop community. Jordache represented “a lot of things – funk and disco, even salsa”, says Way.
While Dan’s designs were bootlegs, they represented luxury to his clientele. “For them, this was custom. This was one of the one, a unique piece only they had – it was the most desired,” says Romero. “All [Dapper Dan’s] clientele were hustlers and gangsters, people that hip-hop personas emulated and wanted to dress and look like.” While Dan’s success eventually led to legal action from luxury brands, he has recently gone full circle.
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