Take a walk straight down the spine of the old town
There’s no better introduction to Edinburgh — the historical, cultural, and political capital of Scotland — than a walk straight down the spine of the old town. Stretching from a hill-topping castle to a queen’s palace, this ramble is appropriately called the Royal Mile . Despite being crammed with tourists and kitschy shops, it’s also lined with some of the city’s top sights.
Though much of the Royal Mile is now a touristy mall filled with tartans, shortbread, and Scottish kitsch, it’s still packed with history. Exploring back alleys and side lanes, it’s easy to imagine Edinburgh in the 17th and 18th centuries, when visitors scurried through these alleyways, buying and selling goods and popping into taverns.
Just down the road from St. Giles’ is the John Knox House, long considered to have been Knox’s home . Regardless, the place has good information on Knox and his intellectual sparring partner, Mary, Queen of Scots. It features atmospheric rooms, period furniture, and a fun little dress-up corner that lets me play out my great reformer fantasy. Attached to the Knox House is the Scottish Storytelling Centre, where locals with the gift of gab perform regularly.
I make quick stops in two worthwhile museums. The People’s Story Museum traces the working and social lives of ordinary Edinburghers through the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries. And the Museum of Edinburgh, another house full of old stuff, offers an interesting look at early Edinburgh history.
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