The high-end hybrid of Peruvian and Japanese cuisine on the False Creek downtown waterfront has expanded to West Vancouver’s Ambleside
Open for dinner daily
And now, it’s been “twinned” on the North Shore, in West Vancouver’s Ambleside neighbourhood. It, too, is on the waterfront, although Bellevue Avenue and a sailing club intrude. The room is muscular and modern, lightened by delicate twinkly lights; daylight pours in from the water-facing glass wall.
Valverde previously worked as exec sous at Blue Water Cafe, a seafood restaurant, and he’s still wedded to seafood. He describes his food as Peruvian Nikkei — in Peru, it’s the food of Japanese immigrants. A causa was the most refined I’ve had. The traditional Peruvian dish of mashed potato with a yellow chili forms a small tower with layers of fillers. At Ancora, perfect cubes of potato mixture is topped with Dungeness crab, quail egg and a crinkly hairdo of orange crispy yam strings. Huancaina sauce puddle at the base. The sauce, named after a Peruvian town, has potatoes, yellow chilies, evaporated milk, queso fresco plus Saltine crackers for thickening.
Pastry chef Rebecca Chen’s pineapple and corn dessert is impressive with pineapple mousse and white chocolate corn flakes under Italian meringue with a perfect quenelle of white chocolate mousse. In Lima, I loved picarones, the skinny yeast doughnuts pumped with sweet potato and pumpkin puree. On the street, women would swirl batter into hot oil, then collect them on a wooden stick like a hoop game.
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