My brioche method starts out by making a tangzhong – a Chinese technique of heating flour, milk and water into a warm paste – which causes the flour to gelatinise. It results in a better rise and a softer crumb
he Amalfi coast, summer 2005: I’m 14 years old and on a family holiday. I keep seeing people eating these brioche rolls stuffed with ice-cream and, naturally, they’re all I can think about. When I finally get one, it’s not at all how I’d imagined – the brioche is a bit stale, and the sun melts the ice-cream inside and it runs down my elbow. I still love the idea of it, though, and I like to think this version is an improvement on that first one I ate in Italy.
Mix the dough again, this time adding the softened butter, then, once the butter is incorporated, turn up the speed and mix for 15-20 minutes, until the dough is shiny, smooth and elastic.
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