The beauty of this dish is the way the condiment gets caught in the pasta, whether that’s in the ends of small tubes or between strings of spaghetti or, better still, even thinner spaghettini, which tangles together and creates a weave that traps the bits of tomato, cheese and flecks of...
he fan stopped working on one of the hottest days of the year, though that shouldn’t have come as a surprise. It has been trying to tell us for weeks, stopping unexpectedly, then starting again after a push; unable to stick to its settings and spinning too fast or too slow, and moaning slightly. I was chopping tomatoes when the ribbon tied to the guard cage of the pedestal fan suddenly flopped flat, and the air in the kitchen stopped moving.
You want about 500g tomatoes – I like a mix of large, firm, slightly green salad tomatoes and a handful of firm, sweet cherry or date tomatoes. It is a good idea to quarter and scoop the jelly-coated seeds from the larger fruit, while smaller ones can simply be diced. As for the cheese, you can use mozzarella or cow’s milk: either way, make sure it has drained for a couple of hours and is then diced small.
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