Rachel Roddy’s recipe for chestnut pasta with mushrooms and herbs

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Rachel Roddy’s recipe for chestnut pasta with mushrooms and herbs
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Like the chestnuts it’s made from, the flour is naturally sweet, which is why it is sometimes known as farina dolce, or sweet flour.

s anyone who has picked up a winking chestnut and rolled it around the palm of their hand knows, sweet chestnuts are heavy things – too heavy to be spread by animals or birds, meaning the chestnut landscape is largely man-made. Throughout history, chestnuts have been planted to provide food , wood and fuel, or as a gift for future generations.

Sweet chestnuts are not picked: they fall from the tree when they are ripe, so need to be collected, on mats or by big vacuums. A friend of ours in Abruzzo, where chestnuts have always been of great economic importance, has a friend who built his own collector that consists of a soft wire basket on a stick which he rolls over the ground so the nuts squeeze between the gaps.

Traditionally, chestnut flour was made by drying the chestnuts in special huts, on racks over a low-burning fire. Once dried, they were peeled and milled. In the 1920s, the mechanisation of peeling revolutionised the process, meaning the nuts could be peeled first, then dried by modern methods, before being reduced to flour. Like the chestnuts it’s made from, the flour is naturally sweet, which is why it is sometimes known as, or sweet flour.

Slice the mushrooms . In a large, deep frying pan or wok set over a medium-low heat, melt the butter and olive oil with the garlic and thyme, until the butter foams gently. Add the mushrooms and a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring, until they collapse. Let the mushrooms bubble gently in their juices for eight to 10 minutes, adding the cream, if using, and a few grinds of black pepper.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta, which will take about three minutes , then lift it directly into the mushroom pan along with the minced parsley. Toss everything thoroughly, and serve.

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