PASTA FIX: Does Ottawa have a pasta-with-red-sauce dish fit for Joe Biden?

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PASTA FIX: Does Ottawa have a pasta-with-red-sauce dish fit for Joe Biden?
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Food critic Peter Hum tested Biden\u0027s favourite meal, pasta with red sauce, at local restaurants ahead of the U.S. president\u0027s visit.

With Biden set to visit Ottawa on March 23 and 24, I’m proposing, at the request of my boss, where the U.S. president might go to get his pasta-with-red-sauce fix. Just bear in mind that in about a decade of reviewing Ottawa-area restaurants, I’ve ordered pasta with red sauce exactly zero times. Frankly, I’m more of a carbonara guy when I’m dining out, although my go-to to make at home is a meaty bolognese.

In search of good pasta with red sauce, I first fit in a quick lunch at Cantina Gia on Bank Street. The popular Glebe restaurant, a two-year-old spin-off of the more upscale North & Navy in Centretown, might be Ottawa’s stand-in for Washington’s Red Hen, which has received the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand kudos for good quality, good value cooking.

Let me just say, though, that at Gia I liked even more my dining companion’s mafaldine with mushrooms , which boasted large, toothsome ribbons of pasta and a more meaty, savoury punch accented with rosemary.

There, the spaghetti was heaped in a large bowl in a more homey fashion, showered with cheese and bolstered with two well-made meatballs. The dark red sauce, while concentrated with flavour, was more sticky than liquid-y, however. At DreamLand, I preferred my companion’s gnocchi paired with a rich but not overwhelming confit garlic cream sauce , served with a piece of gruyère-topped toast.

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