Don’t read this if you’re hungry …
Not so long ago, things weren’t looking so good for bread. It was all no-carb this and gluten-free that. Bread baskets disappeared from restaurants. Lettuce leaves replaced hamburger buns. Suddenly, a beloved staple of the human diet was no longer welcome at the dinner table.Not just any bread, though. Not the white, spongy, pre-sliced stuff in a plastic bag. We’re talking real bread. Bread with a dense crust and chewy crumb.
Manufacturers removed wheat’s germ and bran, the bits that go rancid easily, but also contain its wholesome fibre, protein, vitamins and minerals. Some of those nutrients were later reintroduced chemically for an “enriched,” if texture-free, loaf. Commercial yeasts replaced natural ones. Sugar was added. Other chemicals bleached, preserved and protected bread from pests and mould.“There’s up to 12 different agents that can be added to flour without being put on the label,” McDermott points out.
“We don’t add anything to our grain. We put the grain in the mill, the grain comes out,” McDermott says. Originally from Moscow, Mugerman was living in Squamish, skiing, climbing and working for a pest control company, when he fell in love with bread. “I started baking a little bit at a time … and then I quit my job and went to Europe,” he recalls. “I brought my skis, slept in my car and I worked at bakeries at four in the morning.”
What makes the baguettes so good, in addition to the quality flour, is the two-day process that includes overnight fermentation using a sourdough starter. Mix all of that together and, McDermott says, “You end up with this incredibly delicious living food. There’s an intangible magic to it — and some of that gets transferred into what you eat.”
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