A look at red blends that offer smoothness without the candy-coated sweetness
Oops, my bad. Perhaps I got a little carried away there. “Scourge” might be a little extreme because many people have been lapping up this relatively new style of wine, which in my opinion emphasizes smoothness at the expense of other qualities that I look for in fine wine, such as subtlety, refinement and food-friendly acid lift.
Now, all wines, including those we consider dry, contain some residual sweetness if for no other reason than yeasts are unable to consume every molecule of natural fruit sugar during fermentation. But the brands in question tend to be engineered with a more saccharine profile in mind. You won’t often trip across such names in major daily newspaper wine columns such as this. One reason is that we critics tend to turn up our noses at cuvées that seem concocted in marketing boardrooms rather than by winemakers in mud-crusted rubber boots.
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