During his 12-year run, the Times’ restaurant critic wrote memorable reviews said to have the power to make or break a business.
The man once called the most feared food writer in America has decided to cut himself some slack. After 12 years of devouring some of the most caloric meals in New York, and beyond,“My scores were bad across the board; my cholesterol, blood sugar and hypertension were worse than I’d expected even in my doomiest moments. The terms pre-diabetes, fatty liver disease and metabolic syndrome were thrown around. I was technically obese,” Wells wrote in his farewell column Tuesday.
Tejal Rao, the editors added, will continue to write about restaurants as a food critic at large in California. Wells: Well, I’ll tell you if you, like, regularly consume six or seven thousand calories at a single meal, like I do, you’ll find that the next day, your appetite is kind of moderate. You know? ... I’m very often not hungry at all until I sit down, and even then, I’m not really hungry.Wells wasn’t sure what kind of mark he left on the restaurant world after a dozen years of rendering opinions on it. He’s not even sure whether a restaurant critic should aspire to leave a mark.
“Why is one of the few things on your menu that can be eaten without fear or regret — a lunch-only sandwich of chopped soy-glazed pork with coleslaw and cucumbers — called a Roasted Pork Bahn Mi, when it resembles that item about as much as you resemble Emily Dickinson?” Wells wondered.The review created such a viral stir that Guy Fieri felt a need to respond to it. He went on the “Today” show and.
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