Designers tapped female power on the third day of Milan Fashion Week, previewing collections for next fall and winter.
At Cormio, it was girl power as exemplified by a youth soccer team who lent their field as the runway venue and halted practice to watch. At Andreadamo, the southern Italian designer challenged the myth of Eve as the bringer of original sin. And Gucci constructed a new female archetype during its interim, between creative directors phase.GUCCI DRAWS ON PAST AS IT LOOKS AHEAD
But probably most significant at this moment of palette cleansing was a strong tide of Gucci basics, with a pragmatic streak. They included 1990s cut suits with broad shoulders and easy-fit trousers or wide-cut jeans with men's shirting, worn with an ample overcoat and accompanied by a big all-purpose handbag.
Dresses stretched over the form. Knitwear with raised argyle patterns were layered prettily with super-cropped sweaters with ruffled draining. The star was the collection's motif, seen on stretch dresses and pleated denim mini skirts worn with knee socks -- caught somewhere between girlhood and the grownup world.Andrea Adamo is here to say that someone from a small town in the southern Italian region of Calabria can make it on the Milan runway.
The motif of the season is a fig leaf. And a representative "Eve" closed the show in a nude bodysuit with appropriately placed metallic dig leaves. Original sin flouted. "This is a homage to my city to show that even from a small city in the south you can dream," he said.Fashion met art for Tod's runway show for next fall and winter, set among the towering reinforced concrete structures titled "The Seven Heavenly Palaces" by Anselm Kiefer.
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