The market stall immortalised by Anthony Bourdain is still worth a visit – but it only scratches the surface of Thailand’s incredibly tasty Lanna cuisine.
“These people become popular, I don’t know why,” says my guide, Kiki, with a shrug. “Some foreign person selects them and puts them on TV and then they’re famous.Chiang Mai’s “Cowboy Hat Lady” and her stall Khao Kha Moo Chang Phueak was made famous by Bourdain.We’ve been talking about “Cowboy Hat Lady”, a woman famous around Chiang Mai, and now also around the world, for her street-food stall called Khao Kha Moo Chang Phueak.
And my guide, Kiki – full name Supachaya Sukkasem – a Chiang Mai local, still finds it all a bit weird, still thinks there are so many places around the city that are just as good if not better, and can’t understand why there aren’t hordes of tourists in front of those stalls, too. The restaurant is a modest affair, an open-air space next to a dusty carpark, a few A-shaped roofs holding off seasonal rain. The menu, meanwhile, is a crash course in Lanna goodness, with everything from noodle soups to ant-egg specialties to curries to frog dishes to sun-dried meats.If there’s one dish Chiang Mai is best known for it’s khao soi, a bowl of egg noodles in a rich, curry-based broth, topped with crunchy fried noodles, pickled mustard greens and hunks of meat.
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