Papa’s, an edgy chef’s counter restaurant, is a recent addition to the buzzy contemporary Indian dining scene.
MUMBAI – The mouth-puckering dish of rice-crusted halibut on watermelon curry holds a poignant spot in chef Hussain Shahzad’s heart. It was the last dish he cooked with his mentor, the late chef Floyd Cardoz.
Now the executive chef of Hunger Inc, Shahzad is helming the group’s first fine-dining concept – Papa’s, a contemporary chef’s counter restaurant that opened in February. The 38-year-old says: “That was the last dish that I cooked with him, so I want to start the meal at Papa’s with a memory of him.”Kicking off dinner at Papa’s after a moreish salvo of avant-garde snacks is an innovative take on rasam.
Shahzad, who has worked at fine-dining temple Eleven Madison Park in New York City, says: “The confines of fine dining don’t let the chef’s personality come out. We can escape the shackles of being so cerebral with spaces like ours. Eating is meant to be fun. People connect with food as it brings happiness.”Shahzad takes an open-minded and multicultural approach to the 12-course menu that is comforting and thought-provoking.
Besides the food, there is a lot to take in around the counter. The lights are dramatically dimmed to spotlight the shaving of strawberry-flavoured ice over a sweet-meets-savoury take on Caprese salad. Diners can entertain themselves with a joke book with colouring pages if they are not already bantering.
With more well-travelled and sophisticated diners, Mumbai has a growing number of fine-dining restaurants. How does Papa’s stand out from the competition? A popular shop is Ashok Khamkar Masala, which was founded in 1937. Popular spice mixes include the Spl Malvani or Sunday Masala, a concoction of more than 15 spices such as coriander seeds, fenugreek, mustard and cumin seeds.to reshampatti. The chillies are wok-fried in turmeric oil before being tossed in garam masala. Your eyes may sting from the heat of the freshly fried chillies as you inhale the intoxicating aroma.
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