From steak frites to duck confit, these bistros and brasseries are behind Toronto's French renaissance
This new French bistro in the Danforth is a charmer. Details like the textured copper bar, deep-green wainscoting and pressed tin ceilings give the restaurant a timeless warmth that’s an easy match for the menu of deceptively simple dishes. After spending a dozen years running Olliffe Butcher Shop alongside his brother, owner Ben Gundy has returned to the kitchen to share his thoughtful but relaxed style of cooking.
Sparkling Crémant and funky traditional cider from Brittany accompany a tight food menu, an entire section of which is dedicated to PEI mussels. The creamy potted salmon and punchy steak tartare with salted egg yolk beg for extra wedges of toasted house-made bread to sop up every last bite. And the humble steak haché, a standout among the hot dishes, features an intensely flavourful beef patty stuffed with porcini mushrooms and served on challah .
It will therefore feel immediately familiar to anyone who commemorated an occasion at the original. With its zinc bar, burgundy banquettes and art deco accents, the restaurant’s decor has hardly been touched by the new owners. Chef Ted Corrado prepares French cuisine with a healthy respect for tradition, proving that time-honoured dishes like moules frites, duck confit and coq au vin don’t need to be redefined.
Unchanged as well is Le Sélect’s outstanding wine program, which features north of a thousand labels housed in one of Canada’s largest wine cellars. The primarily French collection includes something for oenophiles of all stripes, from those looking to splash out on a spendy bottle to those seeking a seamless by-the-glass pairing for their steak au poivre.
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