Tim Ho Wan Peak at Marina Bay Sands boasts elevated dishes and decor.
No one goes to Tim Ho Wan for the frills. You would be hard-pressed to find them, anyway, what with the plain interior and brisk service that characterise each outlet.Gone are the plain wooden panels and casual ambience. Suddenly, everything is glossy and green. The walls are studded with customised mahjong tiles. Designer lamps hang from the ceiling. Screens separate diners. There is even a private room you can book with a minimum spending of $500.
The risoni pasta with Cherry Valley duck is another intriguing pick. It swops out grains for short cut pasta, which ends up tasting like plump, chewy morsels of premium rice, but retains that classic wok hei fragrance.Not all dishes land, however. The smoking, bell-jarred baked creamy stuffed crab shell , for one thing, is clearly designed to impress on Instagram. But it underwhelms in taste, with the thick gravy drowning out all traces of crab.
Now, he is dipping his toes into yet another community, taking on Singapore’s diverse food heritage at Quenino, a restaurant in Cuscaden Road serving contemporary Asian cuisine. The rest of the snacks – ama-ebi cracker, baby cucumber with caramelised lemongrass chilli and cashew cream – follow in the same vein, offering an interesting interplay of flavours and textures that make for an appetising, though not particularly mind-blowing, introduction to Liong’s cross-cultural odyssey.
Having coasted on the chef’s creativity up to this point, diners are now called to pull their weight. The restaurant is now offering lunch sets as well on Fridays and Saturdays. Prices start at $68++ for a three-course menu and go up to $128++ for five courses.The Alexandra neighbourhood, as some may know, is the place to go for meatballs. Succulent, pan-seared rounds of meat drenched in velvety gravy, topped with a tart dollop of lingonberry jam. And, no, I’m not talking about the Ikea classic.
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