Equal parts chic Adriatic beach town, active archaeological site and proud, gritty port city, Split is fueled by long seafood lunches, ancient traditions and wine-filled evenings.
“We’re great hosts,” said Ivica Puljak, the physicist-turned-mayor of Split. “But our priority is that Split remains a living centre for our citizens.”Boat tours of the Adriatic Sea leaving the harbour at Split, Croatia, on June 1, 2023. Bacvice Beach, a five-minute walk from the main ferry port, is named for the wine barrels that were once unloaded here because of the shallow, soft, sandy bottom .
The owner, Anteo Ivanisevic, a Split native who learned his trade in New York and New Zealand, makes drinks using locally inspired concoctions: One drink, Solstice , is a mixture of amaro, blueberry, cranberry, lemon thyme and teranino, a liqueur made from a red Croatian grape variety called teran. Then head to the promenade’s western end and the Ribarnica, or fish market , which is crowded with stone tables where mongers hawk Adriatic treasures:glistening sea bass, shrimp, lobsters, oysters. Your reward after shopping: Kruscic, an artisan bakery where rustic creations such as cherry strudel are made with organic, whole-grain flour.
Highlights inside the grounds include the ruler’s 3,500-year-old Egyptian sphinxes; the view from the Cathedral of Saint Domnius’ 187-foot bell tower ; the perfectly preserved subterranean rooms ; and the Temple of Jupiter, dedicated to ancient Rome’s chief deity and converted into a baptistry in the seventh century .
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