Eric shares highlights from a recent trip to Paris, along with a recipe for brandied chicken liver pâté inspired by the kind found in many Paris restaurants and food stores offering classic French food.
In last week’s column I wrote about the trip my wife Cheryl and I took to Provence. From Provence we took a train from Avignon to Paris and spent eight marvellous days. There were many highlights; here are some of them.
Rue Montorgueil and the streets nearby also feature great stores selling French produce, seafood and ready to eat items, such as the delicious rotisserie chicken, ribs and side dishes we bought at Rôtisserie Stévenot, and the Greek food we bought at Traiteur Dionysos. On the other side of that Porte, Rue Saint-Denis becomes Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, a street with a tasty array of restaurants serving such things as Kurdish, Indian, Pakistani and Turkish cuisine. You’ll also find an impressive fine food store called Juhles, stocked with charcuterie, cheese, takeout foods, sweets, wine and everything else a gourmand would want.
There are restaurants in Paris still following that model and one that we went to was Bouillon République. It’s a bustling eatery packed with locals and people visiting from around the world. We enjoyed country-style pate, eggs mayonnaise, leeks vinaigrette, braised pork hock, beef bourguignon and other dishes there, along with some red Rhone wine served by the litre. We were very sated and the meal cost 91 Euros, about $33 Canadian per person.
For lunch one day we ate at Comptoir de la Gastronomie, established in 1894 and described by some as a French gastronomic institution. It’s both a restaurant and a fine food store, selling such things as pate en croute, caviar, smoked fish, cheeses and other luxurious items. For lunch we had some of that pate, awesome onion soup, salad and buttery escargot. Yum!
We also visited Paris’s famed Père Lachaise cemetery. It’s a lovely place to walk and pay homage to the well-known people buried there, such as Jim Morrison, Gertrude Stein and my beloved Edith Piaf. After walking a few hours, we were hungry, and as luck would have it, after leaving the cemetery through its Gambetta entrance, there were numerous restaurants and we stopped at Bistrot Père and had a nice meal.
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