This classic bistro offers a masterclass in French cooking – and that’s a totally unbiased opinion. By Jay Rayner
, 66 Cowcross Street, London EC1M 6BP . Starters £8.50-£16.50, mains £17.50-£48, desserts £6.50-£9, wines from £25.50
So here it is: Bouchon Racine is everything. It is the joyful rebirth of chef Henry Harris’s restaurant Racine, a once greatly adored bistro on London’s Brompton Road, which opened in 2002. Harris, who was part of Simon Hopkinson’s first brigade at Bibendum, wanted, after a less happy journey around kitchens in thrall to fashion, to open a restaurant serving the kind of classic French dishes he loved.
Together, Harris and Strauss have now taken over the Three Compasses opposite London’s Farringdon station. Downstairs is the pub where they sell pints of Moretti. Upstairs is the dining room, with its glass-ceilinged conservatory area at the front. It used to be a Thai place. The red carpet has been replaced by dark varnished floorboards. The walls are the deepest shade of Jersey cream, and the menu is a scribbled blackboard of true loveliness, which changes depending on what’s available.
Meanwhile, we’re into dessert: a beautiful piece of pastrywork in the shape of a tarte vaudoise à la crème, the crisp case filled with best sweetened dairy. There’s a magnificent crème caramel with an Armagnac-steeped Agen prune on the side for those who want them. Best of all, because I am biased and also right, there’s a Mont Blanc gâteau for two, the huge raft of crisp and chewy meringue layered with whipped cream and noodles of boozy chestnut purée.
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