Drastic measures to reform a food system that generates about 31 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions have prompted a growing backlash.
It took an existential threat to turn a fifth-generation dairy farmer into an anti-government protester. Bart Kooijman raises 120 cows on 50 hectares in western Holland. If authorities push ahead with plans to halve nitrogen emissions from agriculture by 2030, his could be among thousands of farms that will have to shrink or close.
Protesting farmers block a draw bridge over a canal, preventing all ship traffic from passing in Gaarkeuken, northern Netherlands, in July.. From farm to fork, the food system generates about 31 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions. Soaring food, fuel and fertiliser prices are already spurring public discontent. Polish and Greek farmers drove tractors to their capitals to voice grievances in 2022 and protests in solidarity with Dutch farmers erupted across Europe.
Even former US president Donald Trump has used them to push his agenda. “Farmers in the Netherlands – of all places – are courageously opposing the climate tyranny of the Dutch government,” he said at a rally in July. “Climate policies need to be done in a more staggered and inclusive manner,” he says. “How can we engage with farmers better and address their needs, that’s essential.”
“We don’t want a country planted in pine trees and then not be able to grow food,” says McKenzie. “We want food security for the future.” The issue for farmers, consumers and policymakers is that we’re running out of time. Weather-related disasters have surged fivefold in the last half century. Last year, floods submerged swaths of Pakistan while drought scorched crops from the US to Brazil,Chuck Fossay, who’s farmed outside Winnipeg, Manitoba, for more than five decades, has seen extreme weather become more frequent on his slice of the Canadian prairies.
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